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1

Some newer iMac models cannot be used as external monitor for another Mac. Use your iMac as a display with Target Display Mode - System Requirements iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014) and later iMac models can't be used as Target Display Mode displays.


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The USB section of the System Report actually provides data for each of the USB devices connected to your Mac. The information you're asking about relates to each of those devices. More specifically: Current Available is the standard amount of power (in milliamps) provided by the specific USB port Current Required is the amount of power (in milliamps) ...


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It sounds like your keyboard may have been the culprit. (From the comments) Using a different wired keyboard can be a good troubleshooting step for iMacs.


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You can try "MS-DOS FAT" formatting with "Master Boot Record" scheme a flash drive. Next mount the download of the current version of Windows 10. Copy all the files from the mounted ISO to the flash drive. Try booting on a Windows machine. If this does not work, then you could install VirtualBox. This is a free product. You can install Windows as a virtual ...


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There are many possible answers, but before I offer them - Have you actually tried to go on and start the copying process? The initial estimate is - well - just an estimate, and after the first few megabytes, it may jump down to something more appealing. Now - the time it takes to copy 50GB from one drive to another, is not only bound by the hardware data-...


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my system will freeze if I don't pull it out. Something is amiss with your system. This isn't normal behavior. Let's look for the root cause of why this is happening. What happens if you reboot? You should try a reset of your i/o system. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063 Try a safe boot. Should you drive work fine in safe mode, it means some ...


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Yes it is possible just use the methods that are described in the link which you have attached. For me it worked fine as long as the USB key is formatted acordingly. Don't exit the write session of the TransMac app as it takes ages. Plug in the USB and boot the USB accordingly using the keyboard.


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One option would be to create a virtual machine on the pc that runs mac OS then create the bootable flash drive there. You should be able to create the vm using the .app file (as long as it is the full .app, should be over 5gb) and some free downloads ie. Vmware, vmware unlocker.... How I might go about doing it: (it's been a while though so Google is your ...


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It is generally not possible to create a macOS bootable installer using Windows or Linux computer. You can consider installing macOS via Internet Recovery.


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It's your data That variability of data rate suggests a copy of many smallish files - akin to backing up the OS files, for instance, where a typical file is as small as 30 bytes and often in the 5-100kb range. Every file has some "write" overhead that must be done per file, regardless of the file size, such as writing the directories. And this isn't a ...


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Interesting question. Some years ago, I found out, that Snow Leopard is running quite well from USB-sticks or even micro-SDHC with higher reading rate - either via USB 2.0 or 3.0 at MacBook Air and iMacs. This short tutorial shows the procedure.


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The bus speed you quote is a theoretical maximum and not that the bus somehow speeds up any and all storage connected to it. An analogy would be a 10 lane highway that’s perfectly packed with cars that drive themselves bumper to bumper in perfect coordination. You need good buffering, ideal behavior, no hiccups to reach the “specs” In practice, there are ...


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Is there any danger in hot-plugging and un-plugging an external (Apple) Thunderbolt monitor (from USB-C)? It is absolutely normal to hot-plug/unplug an external display connected over Thunderbolt or USB-C port of your Mac. It is not required to shutdown your Mac just to plug/unplug an external display.


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Unless the plugged device shows me the eject button in front of its icon, I don't wait until the system gets shut down to remove the external device that I plugged in. Please check if there is a manual to the monitor that have for additional details related to power supply.


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This also seems to be the behavior if your Mac is not compatible with the OS you are trying to install, which was not obvious to me. In my case, I was trying to install High Sierra or Mojave on a Late 2007 iMac, and got the prohibited sign right after picking the USB from the boot menu. After looking at a compatibility list like this one, I tried using the ...


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If the second partition on HDD is for Mac data, you could attempt to install Windows 10 by allocating the entire HDD to Windows. After you have finished installing Windows, you could then shrink the Windows volume and create a partition for the Mac data.


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In short, no it will not damage your MacBook. It's important to note that no matter how you charge your MacBook's battery (whether that be direct via USB C or through a secondary device such as a monitor), the MacBook will be still receiving the same amount of current. This ultimately means there is no difference, and it will still have to go through the ...


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No, having it constantly plugged in won't damage the battery. The MacBook contains power management circuitry that ensures that the battery is not "overcharged". So having a USB-C monitor that charges your MacBook plugged in at all times is no different from having an ordinary charger plugged in at all times.


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I had a similar issue and made my complex_modifications for Karabiner Elements available in a pull request here: https://github.com/pqrs-org/KE-complex_modifications/pull/509


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The answer is usually that you need to call xpc_set_event_stream_handler. I found this amazing utility that will call xpc_set_event_stream_handler to remove the event from the queue, and then call your desired application. It allowed me to solve the problem you are having without writing/compiling any code. Check out github.com/snosrap/...


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AJA System Test is another commonly used tool to benchmark disk performance for the Mac. It offers graphs and a text report of performance instead of just a dial indicating transfer speed like Black Magic. If you want to test random I/O, which neither AJA or Black Magic do, you can use the tool fio like you can on Linux. You can expect the IOPS to be much ...


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You will need to reformat the card in the Mac, it will by default suggest GUID/HFS+. Most cards, as supplied, will be formatted MBR not GUID, so if you just add an HFS+ partition, the Mac cannot boot from it, no matter if you did the rest of the process correctly. & as Nimesh says - you cannot format the drive you are booted from [I'd missed that bit]


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To run macOS off a USB drive, it needs to be installed on it first. Unlike some Linux distributions, you cannot run macOS in live mode from the bootable installer USB. Also, it appears that you are trying to install macOS onto the same USB stick that you booted off. This is clearly not possible to do. You can, however, connect a separate external USB stick/...


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Blackmagic Disk Speed Test If you're interested in read and write speeds there is an app called Black Blackmagic Disk Speed Test available on the App Store. This doesn't have a database to compare with others but can give you actual speeds for your internal and external drive.


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If you click on the 'eject' button in Finder and the drive does not respond, you should get a pop-up message with the possibility to force the ejection of the drive.


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Thunderbolt 2 is an active connector so even though USB is able to be embedded in the data lines, you would need a full thunderbolt chip to establish that link. Kanex makes amazingly reliable and fairly priced hardware in my experience: -https://www.amazon.com/Kanex-Thunderbolt-eSATA-plus-Adapter/dp/B00LOLBBQQ Also, look for used or fire sale full docks, ...


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Success! After I posted this, I tried a few more keywords in my Googling and found this: How to map Caps Lock as a second Control Key on a Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000? And it turns out that uninstalling the Microsoft drivers (by running the programs in Applications/Utilities called "Intellitype Uninstaller" and "Intellipoint Uninstaller") did ...


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How about formatting the usb stick with exFAT format. That works for me where I have to copy/read in both my mac and windows OS's


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Don’t confuse the USB-C connector with cables that are actually dual purpose. A thicker cable almost always signifies an active cable that supports both high USB PD charging and Thunderbolt 100 W power carrying capacity. The shielding needed to allow 40 Gbps on Thunderbolt 3 / USB 4 is likely the reason Apple’s cable is beefier than others that are designed ...


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To answer my own question, according to Wikipedia, USB C cables can have different carrying capacities: All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 3 A current (at 20 V, 60 W) but can also carry high-power 5 A current (at 20 V, 100 W).[10] All USB-C to USB-C cables must contain e-marker chips programmed to identify the cable and its current ...


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The fact that the cable is thick does not necessarily lead to it's ability to reliably deliver a higher wattage. A thinner cable will deliver as much power as long it's a good quality cable that adheres to USB-C standard. USB-C is a standard, but that doesn't mean that all cables you can buy adhere to it. You could buy a thick cable that is poorly made and ...


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This question has a comment that FAT32 is not best for Mac. Can you format disc as ExFAT? That would be best if you want this to be cross-platform or HFS+ for Mac only. Reformatting a drive will delete all data on the drive.


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I had this with a Sandisk card because I wasn't using the microSD to SD converter it came with, but one I had from a Raspberry Pi. As soon as I used the official one it worked fine.


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When you try to mount it through Disk Utility, it decided to mount as Apple HFS automatically based on the observation it made, which it indicates your drive to be a MacOS Extended file system drive instead of Microsoft Basic Data - ExFAT. I’ve encountered similar problems when I formatted my drive on Windows and then became unrecognizable / unmount-able, ...


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Jettison is an excellent recommendation, and probably the one I would make for most people. However, if you want to get into all sorts of Mac automation, you'll definitely want to checkout Keyboard Maestro. You can create a macro that will run when the system goes to sleep, and have that macro run a simple shell script like this: #!/bin/zsh -f MNTPNT='/...


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There may be a native way to accomplish your goal; however I do not know how and why I use EventScripts, which among the events it can react to, Computer will sleep and Computer wakes could be use to unmount/remount an attached USB Drive using AppleScripts, shell scripts and or Automator workflows. You can download the demo version from the developers web ...


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There's a 3rd party app available for exactly this purpose. Jettison app automatically ejects your external drives when you put your MacBook to sleep. It is a paid app with 15 days of free trial available.


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This is just the task suite to a shell script to be packaged with your installer package. Just package all your files as you do and then review this script only package. Since there are no files, all the steps in this guide will show you how to craft the post install script. https://derflounder.wordpress.com/2012/08/15/creating-payload-free-packages-...


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Unetbootbin should work fine for Windows ISO less than 4G with FAT32 partition. However, Windows 10 ISO with latest update is larger than 4G so you have to format the USB to exFAT32 before burning. Here are the tools that work fine on Mojave 10.14 5 on my MacBook Pro: https://www.balena.io/etcher/ https://www.uubyte.com/iso-editor.html You can also set ...


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