Short answer: Your selfie stick is pretending to be a set of iPhone headphones and pressing the button on your stick is actually the same as pressing the volume up or down button which captures a photo. You can do the same with normal iPhone headphones, or by pressing the physical button on your iPhone.
Note: +(ve) and -(ve) refers to ...
There seems to be a bug whereby if the headphones are plugged in when the MBP is put to sleep and are not present when it is rewakened, the headphones stop being recognized. The solution is to:
Unplug the headphones
Put the MBP back to sleep (close the lid; without an external display hooked up)
Plug the headphones back in
Wake the MBP by opening the lid.
Here is the visual comparison of Apple TRRS plug and a standard TRS plug.
On the top you can see a 4-pin headset connector. A headset connector needs to be using the same TRRS standard, or it will not function properly if at all.
On the bottom you can see a 3-pin headphone connector. Any headphone connector will work fine.
Standard 3.5mm jack stereo ...
I found out it was volume setting problem, that could be changed in "Audio MIDI setup"
Plug in the headphones (if there is problem with headphones - if problem exists when using internal speakers, don't plug headphones)
Find in Spotlight "Audio MIDI setup" app:
And open app :
Make sure that channel 1 and 2 have THE SAME volume set up. Set every channel ...
In short, no.
The measurement required to provide correct phase-cancellation in a headset is measured in microns, not inches.
You could neither measure it accurately enough nor stay still enough for it to work.
You would also suffer so much throughput latency in hard & software that any attempt at correction would arrive far too late to be of any use.
This happened to me yesterday. I tried three different headphones.
Go to System Preferences > Sound > Output.
Plug your headphones in if you haven't yet.
Look at the bottom where it says Output Volume and un-check the mute button.
Yes, you can do it: https://community.bose.com/t5/Headphones-Archive/Share-Audio-from-MacOS-Macbook-Pro-with-two-or-more-Bluetooth/td-p/46007
Here are the steps I took:
Connect both headphones via bluetooth. Both should say connected on the Bluetooth setting page.
In Finder menu hit Go -> Utilities -> Audio Midi Setup
You should see both your headphones ...
I've had similar issues and restarting coreaudio work for me. Run this in a terminal (you might be prompted for your password).
sudo pkill coreaudiod
If your curious sudo is something used to run commands as administrator (SU-DO as in super user do) and pkill sends signals to processes based on name, in this case coreaudiod, which is the name of the ...
I had this same problem with my MacBook Pro 13" (mid-2009) running OS 10.6.8. Somewhere on the internet I found the answer. After plugging in the headphones and looking at the System Preferences/Sound, you may not see (in theis model) the option for Headphones, only for Internal Speaker. (Of course, you must first check that the audio port is selected for ...
As far as I'm aware there is no way to get around this if you want to continue to use Siri from the lock screen or by holding the home button.
Your only solution at the minute is either to make sure you say everything without pausing or enable and use the dictation feature on the keyboard - It listens indefinitely until you tap on 'done' so you will be able ...
I guess that won't work for the simple reason that the lag between microphone and headphones is simply too long to cancel a noise before you hear it.
If you use google translate, this article explains the issues in a bit more detail : https://www.heise.de/ct/hotline/PC-Beruhigung-mit-Antischall-319834.html
What kind of works is cancelling a constant noise ...
For ordinary earbuds like the Apple stock product I repeatedly fold the cable in half until I have just enough length to tie the bundle into a loose overhand knot. (Sounds like heresy, but I learned this technique for storing cables from a "big time" touring concert sound company.) Been practicing it with all sorts of cables for better than twenty years ...
Any headphone with a 3.5mm jack will work.
But be mindful about the remote controls. If it doesn't specifically says compatible with iPhone/iPod, it may not work with your iPhone.
As long as you just care about listening to sound on the headphones, as long as the tip is undamaged and standard, you won't harm the iPhone using any headphones.
The headphone symbol is shown when you are connected to Bluetooth headphones/speakers, which would be true if you have a Bluetooth device auto-connecting (which would not be used when you plug in headphones). Go to Settings → Bluetooth and see which device you are connected to, and disconnect if you wish. Sound notifications will be routed to this device so ...
I still really like @aaplmath's suggestion (and that may be the best one going forward), but I also just stumbled on this solution that requires no coding (AppleScript/Swift/ObjC/Other) in High Sierra, and it's super easy to configure.
Please note that the answer was in the comment section of the article and it seems to work on High Sierra (I'm on 10.13.6), ...
I found the solution to my problem. For some reason (who knows why) the headphone output was set to 16-bit. Of course that's going to sound awful.
To fix this, head to 'Audio MIDI Setup' (can be found with Spotlight) and change the 'Built-in Output' to 32-bits.
When you insert the headphone into the socket, it makes connections internally against a number of poles which connect to the different rings on the jack end (left audio, right, mic, ground, data etc..). These are essentially tiny spring loaded contacts which the jack must push aside when inserting, that then rely on sprung pressure to maintain a permanent ...
I actually find it very useful to clip around the buttons on my dress shirt. Depending on the amount of slack I want, I can pin it around different buttons.
It creates enough slack in the lines/wires that go to the ears:
reduction in cord noise carrying up into ear-buds
the mic in the right wire stays away from your body (better pickup and less noise
Tough to know for certain, but my money is on an impedance mismatch between the output of the Macbook and your new headset. Or, perhaps more accurately stated, excessively sensitive (low impedance) headphones are revealing flaws in the MacBook audio output circuit.
Care to share the model of headphones you're now using? My guess is it's a low-impedance ...
Do the following:
Open "About This Mac"
Open "More Info..." (skip this step on macOS Sierra)
Open "System Report..."
From the left pane choose Hardware > Audio
Check if Optical Digital Audio Output is present
@Gerry was right: there was dust or lint in the jack that was preventing the headphones from fully seating. I couldn't see it, but I used the end of a floss pick to clean it out and that fixed it. The headphones stay in so snugly now that I can actually lift the phone by pulling on them (not that I would do that normally; I just wanted to confirm it really ...
WOW I finally figured this out.
Tampering with the audio jack will cause this to happen. I have headphones with the play/pause/skip control button, so the issue might not show up with standard headphones. If I tap (or double tap) the headphones where it is connected to the jack, the effect is the same as if I clicked the remote button that was designed to ...
I repair Macs for a living, and have seen just about every possible WRONG way of handling a liquid spill.
the answer is water.
If you inject water into your mac, you've f'd it up.
Consider 1 drop of water in a Mac to be the equivalent of ingesting 2 pints of JackDaniels in your body.
Drink 2 pints of Jack, and let us know how predictable you are... ...
It is imperceptibly worse than the standard iPhone DAC + amplifier + headphone jack.
Regarding the debate over whether it contains its own DAC, iFixit looked into this, in collaboration with Creative Electron, by x-raying an adapter and investigated what they saw. According to iFixit, it is likely that it contains, at minimum, “a digital-to-analog converter ...
I couldn't find the specific details for the new MacBook Pro Retina machine, but these specs are pretty universal across the whole MBP lineup and should help you match a pair of headphones:
The line/headphone output is automatically selected for audio output if no external device is detected at the S/PDIF optical digital output ...