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Supposedly, you can change the colors of calendars from the iPhone now. How!? (In particular, I'm trying to do it for google calendars synced via exchange, but I can't see how to do it with iCloud ones, either.)
You can do this in the Calendar app.
1) Tap Calendars in the upper left corner:
2) Then tap Edit:
3) Select the calendar you want to change the colour of:
4) Pick the colour you want. If you want a more extensive selection than what's in the list, you need to do it from iCal on your Mac.