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I'm about to repair a broken screen for iPhone 5S at a non-official repair shop (as official repairs don't provide screen replacement in my region, only replace the whole phone for a fee).

How can I check that the replacement part is a genuine one made by Apple (no matter new or extracted from a used phone) rather than a third-party replica?

closed as off-topic by bmike Aug 10 '15 at 14:37

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    I've removed all the previous comments as they didn't help in moving the question forward. – nohillside Jul 8 '15 at 11:48
  • Also - hardware shopping is off topic. We're not a place to learn the trade of telling knock-offs from legitimate product. You don't define genuine - so I'll put a hold on this temporarily to work out if this is even on topic. – bmike Jul 8 '15 at 14:24
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    @bmike I posted a question on meta: meta.apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2559/… – yurkennis Jul 9 '15 at 14:57
  • @bmike Just to clarify my situation: I solved my problem long ago, and now only trying to leave as much reusable information as possible. I have no questions to ask to an excellent answer by unknowndomain (which I immediately upvoted upon receiving), but I want to make this question open to other tips that surely exist--for the sake of community and expanding the knowledge base. – yurkennis Jul 31 '15 at 22:20
  • @yurkennis please make your answer promptly so I can see whether to leave this open or close it again. – bmike Aug 10 '15 at 1:45
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In all likelihood the screen won't be original. You'll be able to tell from a number of factors but none of them are conclusive as fake screens can exhibit any of these indicators...

  • The glass should be a deep black or neutral white, not grey, or cream.

  • The phone shouldn't feel heavier, often fake screens are much heavier.

  • The grille over the ear piece should have a fine black mesh not silver or with large holes, or missing.

  • After cleaning the screen, if you place the screen in a bright pin/spot light you should see a streaks of rainbow colours in a criss-crosssing diamond pattern.

Rainbow effect on front glass

Back glass has a normal reflection

  • The thickness should be the same as before, fake screens are often almost twice as thick as originals.

The glass should only bee 1-2mm thick

  • You shouldn't be able to see the proximity sensor in the glass, and if you can it should be a neutral grey not a blue transparent look.

Proximity sensors shouldn't be visible or should be a neutral grey in bright light

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    This would be better with specifics. How many mm thick is the proper part? What is the actual Apple part number? I don't think you need vernier scale - but measurements to 0.01 mm would be what I'd guess Apple finishes and species for these parts. – bmike Jul 8 '15 at 19:52
  • I don't have that info. – unknowndomain Jul 9 '15 at 14:09
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    Sounds good. +1 from me - I commented since other people can edit in that information over time. Lots of good stuff here. In the end, it's not so applicable to the OP. They seem to be asking " how can I know if the particular repair shop I'm picking/already picked" will use good parts - that's a social or contractual problem IMO. You don't give them your money/property until you're convinced you have recourse with refunds or other ways to be satisfied. – bmike Jul 9 '15 at 14:45
  • @bmike you are right, interestingly the info about fake iPhone 5S screens is pretty hard to come by, but the iPhone 4 and 4S has a load of interesting quirks like the blue proximity sensor glass rather than red, and there is a small line through the fake ones separating the IR LED and IR Photodetector, which isn't present on a proper apple display. The one above with the diamond pattern is the best sign though. I think it's the oleophobic fingerprint coating? – unknowndomain Jul 9 '15 at 14:51

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