I've narrowed the problem down to MacOSmacOS is preferring the public DNS server 1.1.1.11.1.1.1
for all DNS queries except for oddly dig. Once I set the DNS to just the internal DNS server, things work fine. I wouldn't consider this a fix per se as I should be able to use an external DNS server should the internal one fail, but this addressed it.
The "fix" is to remove the public DNS server, despite it being second in the list from DHCP, and hard code just the internal DNS. Weird, confusing, as other devices work without needing that change, but marking this as "answered".