New answers tagged magsafe
There are three axes to consider when measuring the force needed to separate a MagSafe 2. There are two great articles that cover the basics: http://www.macworld.com/article/2895694/will-your-new-macbook-crash-to-the-ground-without-magsafe-yes.html http://leancrew.com/all-this/2015/03/slippin-and-a-slidin/ The MagSafe 2 is quite strong if you have a ...
This is so commonly misunderstood that I shall attempt to provide a short précis, then link to a good explanation which is not overly-technical. Common misconception - earthing/grounding Most small household appliances are not, in fact, earthed at all - even if there is a valid earth pin on the mains plug. They are what is known as 'double insulated' & ...
There is a product that also can help with this. http://www.snuglet.com It works by using a tiny machined piece of metal inside of the port on the computer to strengthen the connection of the magsafe 2 connector.
You can turn it into an approximation of an L or even a U by the simple expedient of tying a knot in it. This is my standard way of dealing with any awkward cable. It's not perfect, but boy, it's cheap ;-) L-knot U-knot From comments - the U-knot is achieved by simply wrapping one end through a second time, if it's not clear from the picture. BTW - ...
Apple MagSafe cables have one central shielded cable & one braided outer cable. You are simply breaking & creating a connection when you touch the broken braided cable - the order anomaly is the MagSafe/MacBook logic/sensor only allowing a particular state to operate. It is possible to crack open a MagSafe and solder a 3rd party cable (but it will ...
Unless you know your way around electronics, a soldering iron and the like, it is doubtful you will be able to fix it. However a quick check of iFixit.com yielded this url.
Have a look at Ken Shirriff's Teardown and exploration of Apple's Magsafe connector. It includes a pinout that will help you.
Just try to open your MacBook Pro's back cover, unplug the cable from the battery to the logic board. Keep it unplugged for a couple of seconds. Then reconnect the cable from the battery to the logic board an reassemble the cover of your MacBook Pro, reconnect the charger and it should be all good to go.
Sounds like a DC-In board or logic board issue. It could be possible that the fake one cooked the parts of the logic board which provide the onewire communication between the SMC and adapter. Before you go replacing parts, make sure the contacts are clean on both the rMBP and MS2 adapter. Ensure no pins are pushed in and stuck on the adapter. Also ensure ...
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