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Yes, you can boot an iMac from the Mac Book volume using Target Disk Mode. The main issue to be aware of is many programs will ask you to log in again, including App Store apps.


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Here's some clarity for anyone looking. The root cause of the sign in when switching the host is that programs often store their license information x'ord (or otherwise encrypted with) a hash of the host hardware. This means that, when the hardware changes, the previously stored configuration is unrecoverable. I've tried spoofing the MAC address, but all ...


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2006 is the year when Apple switched from PowerPC CPUs to Intel CPUs, so you've probably got a PowerPC MacOSX Tiger Installer. (which cannot run on Intel MBPs) If you cannot boot the installer disc from iMac, then your iMac is probably also Intel. You may be in luck getting a OSX 10.6 or 10.7 running on it depending on it's hardware capability, and you don'...


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You can sign out of his iCloud and then in with yours (or create your free iCloud account if you don't have one). This can all be done in System Preferences. Open the  (Apple) menu in the top left corn Open System Preferences Click on iCloud If your son-in-law's account is still signed in, click the "Sign Out" button in the bottom left corner At this ...


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Actually you may have a minor, if understandable, misunderstanding of how a network works. If you plug a Mac (or a PC, or anything else...) into a base station that other computers connect to wirelessly they are all on the same network. Neither MacOS nor Windows, Linux or anything else differentiates a wireless network with a wired network coming from the ...


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I have my MacBook Pro connected via Ethernet to a mostly wireless network. Streaming and Continuity features work fine (in fact, streaming is much faster, which is the reason I use this setup). The only feature I have found that doesn't work over wires is AirDrop. I believe this requires peer-to-peer WiFi. It's not a big deal to me. I am not aware of a way ...


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Yes it will work, although it's always better to have the same latency and MHz kits.


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After working on this issue, seems like the sensor for the monitor causes the system to behave this way, I disconnected the monitor sensor, i'm guessing it's a temperature sensor., and it seems to be working fine.


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I find it surprising you were able to boot the Windows installer via a USB port. I have year 2006, 2007, 20011 and 2013 iMac models and only the 2013 model can install Windows correctly using a USB flash drive installer. I not saying you did not install Windows via the USB port, rather that you probably were not suppose to. (I assume your have a mid 2010 ...


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I was able to solve the problem by booting into single-user mode and entering these commands: Mounting the failing drive /sbin/mount -uw / followed by repairing the disk fsck_hfs -y -Rc -d /dev/disk0s2 then rebooting the computer into normal mode exit


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This is not a direct answer, however, when the computer 'chimes' after activation, press and hold the key combination: command V to enter 'verbose mode'. This should illustrate to the screen exactly what is happening during the boot process. If the process hangs on a particular step, then this is likely the issue, the remedy for which may be varied. ...


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A DisplayPort KVM would probably work. Have you tried using a DisplayPort cable instead of a thunderbolt one between the iMac and the Thunderbolt Display? It might be cheaper than a KVM which would guarantee you can switch inputs without the iMac taking control of the attached display.


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I usually buy any branded memory with the same pins and MHz and it always work. But there are brand names that manufacture for Apple products, like OWC. But Corsair and Crucial etc have memory sets as well, specifically designed for Mac: Adamanta | ArchMemory | Crucial | Corsair


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You will need two "16GB Kits" to get the full 32GB. I have personally done this in my iMac 27" The memory that I recommend is Crucial 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3L - CT2K8G3S186DM I recommend Crucial because they are very reliable and they have a lifetime warranty. There are brands that are cheaper, but (IMO) it's simply not worth the cost savings of giving up ...


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I ran into this today on a month-old iMac. The only thing that isn't fresh about it is my account, which has been replicated across 5 machines and 12 major MacOS versions using Migration Assistant when possible, leaving it with a fair bit of cruft in ~/Library/Preferences/. Unfortunately, in recent versions Apple has made it complicated to clean up that ...


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My imac did the same thing, but I assumed that it might have something to do with the fans. so I opened it up, and used an air hose from my compressor to clean the fans... they were completely covered in dust. This was causing them to run slow and not run at all. after this I put the imac back together... good as new. BTW I watched a YouTube video that ...


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I worked at the Apple store in CT for almost three years and, while you can easily use the Apple Store for Education without being verified no matter WHO you are, it is not using the discount in an honest manner. If you go to the store, unless the specialist does you a favor, probably in return for you giving him/her a good review on the survey that comes ...


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Anyone in the US can get Apple's education pricing. Anyone. Select a school during the checkout. There is no verification process.


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There are only a few components in an iMac that can make clicking noises. It's highly unlikely that it's your logic board or a component of your logic board, but the possibilities are: Power Supply Hard Drive Speakers CPU Fan I've included a sample picture and the location of the components in the picture below Power Supply There are a number of ...


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I have found that clearing all cache and font maintenance resolved the issue. rm -rf ~/Library/Caches/* rm -rf ~/Library/Saved\ Application\ State/* sudo rm -rf /Library/Caches/* sudo rm -rf /System/Library/Caches/* atsutil databases -removeUser sudo atsutil databases -remove sudo atsutil server -shutdown sudo atsutil server -ping sudo rm -rf /var/...


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I also had this problem and I spent about an hour on the phone with Apple. It turns out that there was an issue with a 3rd party application. Once i went into System Preferences > Users and Groups> then into Login Items and deleted all of the items in the list, my computer was able to shut down properly.


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Step by Step sure fire method to find out - Pick up phone. Dial 1800MYAPPLE (1-800-692-7753) Ask to speak to a customer service rep familiar with the program. "Hello, my name is Zac and I am currently a student at X High School located in Y state. Do I qualify for a student discount?" ??? Profit If you follow my method and are unable to find out and feel ...


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Unless you have been accepted to a college, it is not supposed to be enough. The terms and conditions page states that the following people are eligible: K12 - Any employee of a public or private K-12 institution in the United States is eligible, including homeschool teachers. In addition, school board members who are currently serving as elected or ...


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Students of all grade levels, from kindergarten through post doctoral candidates as well as teachers, staff and parents qualify for the EDU discount. On the Apple Store for Eduction, you can find your educational institution so you can shop with your discount. Using "New York, NY" as the city and state and selecting K-12 we see that there is an extensive ...


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I smell an impending death of a hard drive. For that case, I suggest an upgrade to an SSD will do. Not only you have a newer storage device but also you have a faster computer altogether. On a side note, if an SSD isn't your fancy, you can always purchase a new HDD, but go for the better models since it will benefit you more in the long run.


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If you use Avid products you might try removing: /Library/Audio/Plug-Ins/HAL/Avid CoreAudio.plugin/ or /Library/Audio/Plug-Ins/HAL/Digidesign CoreAudio.plugin/ this was the cause of three of our computers not shutting down after the El Capitan upgrade. After removing the first shutdown will require sudo shutdown -r now from the terminal or press ...


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I had, and still have, the same problem. Something I have installed either needs updating or has become corrupt and I can't work out what it is. I have found a simple work around though. When you want to shut down, first close all open programs. Then BEFORE you choose shut down, choose "FORCE QUIT" Finder. When Finder starts itself again you should be able ...


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It's possible that you have a corrupted installer. I would suggest downloading it again and following instructions to make a bootable drive using the create install media tool provided in terminal. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372 I would not agree that there was a hardware problem due to the fact that you were able to use the computer after ...


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I had this problem as well. I could not shutdown from the Apple menu or even logout. All desktop items and menu bar would disappear when I tried to shutdown, but the dock stayed and machine would never shut down. I could even reopen applications in the dock, except Finder. However, I could shut down by going to the Login Screen and clicking on ShutDown ...



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