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Someone did it. There's no good way to open it. Use a Dremel to carefully cut around the seam until it was thin enough to crack apart. There's one huge capacitor (Rubycon KXW 450V 150 uF) that needs to be discharged before the power supply will start up. Be careful, because it's charged to over 100 volts. Solder a 600 k ohm resistor across it to bleed ...


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If it's anything like this power supply, you'll need to saw it open. Apple's "non-repairable" devices are thermally or chemically welded, and there's usually no clean way to open them up.


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Something similar happened to me too. However, it also happens when I'm using it on battery as well. Hands felt tingling/numbing sensations and eventually burning sensation. Got blisters the next day. Had the unit returned and received a replacement. Replacement still gives me the tingling/numbing sensation after 30 minutes, but I have not received electric ...


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Doesn't look like it. Best info I can find says it can do 3840x2160 resolution at 30Hz Everymac hasn't been updated to include them yet, this was from zdnet - http://www.zdnet.com/new-improved-slower-mac-mini-7000034795/


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Buy the "Basic" (as they call it in Apple Store) 2012 Mini and replace HD and RAM yourself is the most economical way. It's also the power user move. a) While leaving the factory HD in place, you can put in a second drive such as a SSD at where the optical bay used to be. You can dual boot two OSX's. One can be the daily OS, the other 1) as extra storage ...


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Not at the Apple Store. They will give you a quote to replace the housing. You'll have to bring it to a body shop to find out if it can be repaired!


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If you have hold down the shift key during startup it can go to safe mode. Sometime due to disk issue and new software installation it may go to safe mode. Try restarting normally and it should be back to normal mode. If you have installed anything new try removing them in safe mode.


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The brand shouldn't really matter. I have G Skill in mine with no problems. The stock was Samsung. The trouble with that specific model is that it doesn't clock down faster RAM properly thanks to some hardware bug with the Nvidia chipset. It's very important to only use 1066 MHz DDR3 with this model (you can usually get away with faster on other models). I ...


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http://www.crucial.com has an app you can download to tell you which you need. Kingston & Corsair have drill-down selectors, but Crucial's is far easier.


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1) RAM Upgrade As far as I'm aware, the laptop cannot be upgraded beyond 8GB. This is due to restrictions by the CPU and chipset architecture in that particular model. Unless you are a real power user who does lots of video editing or likes to have a lot of applications open at a single given point in time, 8GB should be perfectly fine. DDR4 ram is NOT ...


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First step would be try the Apple Hardware Test or Apple Diagnostics, depending on whether your machine is pre or post 2013 Plug the machine into the mains power, boot then hold the D key until the test screen appears.


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I had a similar solution to TrentEllingsen. My CD drive would not relinquish this stuck CD. Not with a terminal command or eject button or what have you. I eventually decided to go about it manually. First I tried using a card to leverage the CD enough so that "drutil eject" would work but after several tries it was obvious it wouldn't. So I rubbed on ...


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I think Apple would tell best how to Maximize Battery Life and Lifespan: https://www.apple.com/batteries/maximizing-performance/


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My MacBook is an older one - OSX 10.5.8 . It has had the "folder of death" problem twice recently. The first time I tried all the "fixes" recommended but to no avail. I did not attempt wiping the HDD. I put it aside for a couple of weeks and was surprised to have it come good after that. Today it went bad again. The clicking noise sounded like the HDD was ...


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I've been all over the web today looking at this very problem. One thing that WILL NOT WORK is an external USB keyboard. It must be the built in keyboard. When you hold down those three keys you are completing a circuit inside the Macbook. The only other way I've found during my research is removal of the battery then holding down the power button for a ...


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There is a simpler solution. You need a client that can render the video/audio. The presumption is that you need an iTunes server to send the stream to the device. I use FileBrowser to render the video or audio directly to the device without my Mac delivering the stream. FileBrowser gives you the ability to browse through the files on your NAS without ...


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Lots of work has been done in the retrocomputing community to allow transfer of 5 1/4" floppies in all the major 8-bit formats to virtual disk images that can be used on a modern computer via emulation software. For example, KryoFlux is a hardware interface that uses generic (cheap) PC-style floppy drives to read any disk format, including Apple II. This ...


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Based on the information provided I would say the mouse settings are not been loaded. You can add the "MicrosoftMouseHelper" to the log in items area. That should override the OS X defaults. The file should be located in your /Library/PreferencePanes/Microsoft Mouse.PrefPane/Contents/Resources/MicrosoftMouseHelper


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This sounds suspiciously like a hardware fault. If you are in an area with a Genius Bar or an authorized Apple repair centre, I would take the unit in for testing/diagnosis. As these are always-on devices, they should be able to sustain brownouts and outages without issue.


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As there is no power switch or external fuse on the airport line of hardware, the absence of any lights when you plug it in means that the hardware is failed. If you have AppleCare on the computer it might cover that airport so definitely check that if you have a covered computer. If not, the repair cost for an airport is generally not much less than a ...


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I've worked with hardware for too many years. My guess is that your camera life will not be significantly affected. The camera is small with no moving parts, and fairly mature technology. If you are leaving the computer unattended, and it is facing towards the sun (maybe sunrise or sunset?) you might want to take steps to make sure direct sunlight will ...


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The mid-2011 iMac uses 4 - 204-pin PC3-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM, so it seems that you've purchased the correct memory. The most likely cause of the problems you're seeing are improperly inserted- or faulty RAM. It can help to blow out the memory slots with compressed air and ensure that the RAM does not have grease or grime on any of the contacts prior ...



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