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You say, the battery status is 4/5 lights and the magsafe status is initially orange and gets green after a short wait, this means that the battery isn't charged after all, although it isn't completely charged. When you boot with power supply and click at the battery indicator left the clock in the menu-bar, does it say anything about needing to be replaced ...


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So the fan doesn't even spin up when attempting to boot from battery? First thing to try is resetting the SMC: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 Any chance you can try with another battery? Although from what you've described it sounds fine. You might be looking at the logic board as the fault.


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Yes, you need to be reasonably close to the 5v spec and supply at least 500 milliamps (directly via USB), or ~12w via the iPad charger but that will give losses on the DC-AC-DC conversion. There is a protocol to inform the iPad over USB that it can draw more than 500ma, but in practice it isn't required. Only the iPad 3 is insufferably slow to charge that ...


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Voltage does matter, it must be =<5V. You can use a simple voltage regulator to keep yourself from going over. You can also wire the panels so that they don't go over 5 (if each panel does 1.5V, 3 panels get you 4.5V, which will work but be slower. So the 4 panels will give 6 Volt and the 5 Volt Zener diode will cut off the access 1 volt Wattage is ...


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Don't know your exact model but here is an example how to replace hard drive. Before starting consider that you should also know 1- how to back up the current dive 2- how to install the operating system


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My early 2011 17" starting exhibiting grapics errors yesterday. Today it would not boot. Boot fails when the screen exhibits vertical bars instead of gray background when the apple logo first appears. The apple logo disappears and only gray remains. Then the fans crank up. I can get back to a successful boot with the integrated graphics. Here is how: Let ...


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Run software update from the apple icon. If there are any updates it will tell you but you should be good to go as the SATA interface is the same so the only firmware change needed is wear leveling and trim. You can check if that is enabled by clicking on About This Mac>system info> more details> then in the sidebar of system profiler click on the Sata ...


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You should go ahead and do what you first propose of the SSD in the optical and the HDD in the main. There are two things to consider with speed, data rate and latency. Data rate is how fast the data can transfer from point A to point B. Something to keep in mind though is HDD are not that fast and may not use the full 3 Gigabits it is given. A WD green ...


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Remove the 2 screws next to the charging port and slide the back off. Carefully pry the battery clip out and your phone will shut off. Plug it back in and your phone will turn on again. NOTE: you can damage your phone if this isn't done correctly. Be careful!


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No, all digitisers for a certain model of iPad are the same regardless of where the iPad was purchased. Input of Japanese characters is a software feature independent of the location where the digitiser was purchased.


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I stuck it in the freezer for awhile. Makes the battery on my die rather quickly.


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If it's a software issue you can fix it resetting the phone back to factory defaults (just make sure you back up first). If it's a hardware problem like the screen doesn't work or touchscreen is not responding to touches then there's no simple fix. You can only resolve this by repairing the broken hardware.


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Dirt and oil does not transfer from the keyboard to the screen when the MBP is closed. Drastically improved design. Screen is unbelievably good.


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I have the late 2013 rMBP. Advice: Buy a can of air and a microfiber cloth at Walmart And all is good. Static is bad on the display which will attract tiny dust occasionally. Between the 2 mentioned items you will be fine. And yes, it takes almost NO pressure to cause the LCD to distort from your finger. I was a little let down on this. Mainly because you ...


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With a machine that old, dust covering the internal components will make it difficult for the computer fans to dissipate heat. I would suggest turning the iMac over, opening the RAM cover and blowing out as much dust as you can through the vents.


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The likelihood that a single tool or utility will provide all of the diagnostic capabilities that you are looking for is very slim; if you do happen to find such a utility, there's a decent chance that its support for said capabilities will be shallow. So while it may seem like a good idea to try to find a really generalized and versatile hardware ...


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You can access Apple Hardware Test or Apple Diagnostics by restarting the computer while holding down D You mentioned Tech Tool Pro, which I haven't used for like a decade, but it was pretty good back then. I don't know of any software out there that is more comprehensive. Other software you might try, but I don't think these really do what you want, they ...


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Running an OpenGL game has been a good benchmark for me. Artifacts and framerate drops can reveal issues with your GPU. A frame of reference would be ideal, but if you're not a gamer, and weren't playing any games before your concern arose, you might be hard pressed to find an identical HW/SW setup to compare. Various benchmarking apps out there, some with ...


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The best way to know for sure is to check for yourself. If you have access to an Apple store, you can just bring it in and try it on any of their Macs there. (All Macs have the same standardized OS with the same drivers available) That being said, the answer is most likely yes. Generic USB devices like this are typically fairly standard, and usually have ...



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