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You will be amazed what can collect in the headset socket over the years, hindering its proper functioning. Giving them an occasional good cleaning will keep them running. First, use a tooth pick and try to remove anything that could be stuck in there. Next use a q-tip soaked with alcohol and swipe in there to clean the contacts.


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There is not actually big difference between them. I would recommend you to buy external hard drive instead internal. For internal MacBook disk i think 500 Gb it's complete enough.


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That will depend on what kind of analytical/measurement tools do you have? Oscilloscope, Volt meter ect... Since it does not start at all and Battery is shut it could be simply the power input module. Open it and check if power is coming in and the fuse is not blown. Is the display working: try the Target Display Mode. Here is some how to: ...


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Nothing is better than iFixit replacement guides (link for your 27 inch 2011 model). This tutorials are technically correct and safe to apply. Hi-res pictures are also available. Additonally you can try to find some videos in Youtube


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To me that looks like possible hardware problem (the GPU). You can try the Safe mode to see if the problem persist. Also you can try and log in as different user. You can reset the PRAM, and run the Apple Hardware test. Last not least you can reinstall the OS. All above will test for software problems. There is one hardware test you can do and it is to ...


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I use a MacBook Pro, but I've noticed this behaviour with some software, where the audio gain in System Preferences gets reduced to zero (i.e., no mic input). I suggest the following procedure: Launch the software that you're having difficuty with. Go System Preferences >> Sound >> Input Increase the Input volume slider as desired Switch back to your ...


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I have been getting tingling shocks from my Mac for a while, but only when I use the shorter cable i.e the converter is the plug itself. The problem stops when I use the extension cable. Must be design fault, with the shorter plug adapters not earthing properly.


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I rang Apple in the end, they didn't know either without seeing it. 8-) Suggested I take it in for a free diagnosis. Before I did that I tried taking the heatsink sensors connected off and replacing it. Bingo, all fixed. So the answer must be that this error is the heatsink sensor.


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You can leave your battery unchanged as long as you want, even it is not recommended by the operating system (i.e. Apple). From my own experience (2011 MacBook Air with 1178 load cycles), the battery performance will just degrade more. It may be be months away, but at one point the battery will be so weak that an unplugged Mac will not go to sleep when ...


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Yes, it's possible to replace individual keys without replacing the keyboard. I recently replaces right SHIFT, right OPTION and several f1 - f12 keys on my 2011 13' MBP. SHIFT key was chipped on the bottom edge, which made it unaesthetic. OPTION fell off. I customized my fn keys with Karabiner, so the symbols on them no longer apply. Mechanically, the ...


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Have to tried installing SMC Fan Control? You can look at fan speeds and alter the speeds as well, which would help you verify their functionality/status.


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If they are replacing the battery and it is under warranty, just tell them the fan is buzzing and they will look at it while replacing the battery. It may just be something got in there and it's clanking around which could be solved by compressed air, but it could be failing.


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I believe that your third option will be easiest to work with, since you have the mobility that you desire (i.e., 13" model), which can be connected to the 27" display when in the office. In particular, the system should be responsive when hooked to the external display, even with all the windows and applications that are running simultaneously. One thing ...


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Look at something like Scannerz because it was designed to find those types of problems. Here's a link: http://scsc-online.com/Scannerz.html Scannerz is fault detection software that monitors and looks for signatures associated with various types of logic board, drive, and system failures. I suspect either a cable, connection, or logic board problem. I ...


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Turns out it's an ESD protection component, but one that isn't able to take a whole lot anyways, so operation without it can be considered reasonable, especially when considering the amount of work that would go into ordering a replacement and soldering it on the board. Source: Chat over at EEV Blog. (I forgot the username, otherwise I'd love to give proper ...


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Connect the display and deactivate mirroring in system preferences. To connect the display user any of your free ports (HDMI or Thunderbolt) with an adapter do VGA. If your first screen has Thunderbolt, you can daisy-chain an adapter through the display.


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If I understand your configuration, you have: a. macbook, plus two external displays b. two thunderbolt ports, one for ethernet, one for display c. one hdmi port for the other display For the VGA display, you need a Mini DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter. And the HDMI display can be simply hooked to the HDMI port. Now, to display different desktops: Go ...



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