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Assuming your case is not the cause of the rattling issue (in other words take it off for a while and see) then this is an issue that should be brought to the attention of an Apple Store Genius near you. The days of computers, especially laptops, making any kind of noise (barring the occasional optical drive seek noise...) is long over. The Mac is still ...


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Leaving your wifi and going outside to use cellular data seems to snap the sound back on, for me at least. It might also work in reverse--cellular to wifi.


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If you are using Terminal (not iTerm or others), there is a setting that might help. Turn off this setting (sorry, it's in german. But the location should be the same): If you are using iTerm, there is at least a fix for vim: You can remap the keys to get this to work. Just add the following lines to your ~/.vimrc (Create it, if it doesn't exist.) ...


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No, that SSD is not compatible with your MacBook Pro, as the form factor is different. Your Mac takes "blade" SSD, while the one on Amazon is the regular old hard drive-like enclosure. Personally, I recommend Intel for SSDs, I've had great luck with them.


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Yes that drive will work! I have a 2013 MacBook Pro with a very similar SSD that I replaced myself. It's a very straightforward process and shouldn't give you much trouble. I'll assume that you have a 2014 MacBook Pro and not a retina MacBook Pro. The retina MacBook Pro uses "blade" SSD's.


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The Retina MacBooks use a format of SSD that can be replaced, but Apple does not make it especially easy for simple replacement. Rather than the more familiar 2.5" HD format you might be familar with, the Retina use a newer blade style, somewhat similar to memory modules. Your best bet it to look over the ifixit guides, to see what is involved: ...


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I do have a MacBook Pro 13" mid 2012 (no Retina), and I was able to upgrade both RAM (from 4GB to 16GB) and the drive (from the standard Hard Drive to Solid State Drive). I bought the items on Amazon and did it myself, it wasn't difficult at all (and there are tons of tutorials around the web). You must check how old is your Mac: in the newest models you ...


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In the past, Apple doesn't upgrade any storage as a rule. This is HDD/SSD across the board. The only exceptions I've known are: If you have several internal bays and you buy the part (Think Mac Pro with 4 SATA bays or Xserve / Xserve RAID) You are paying for a service repair and they upgrade you for free to a larger drive. You don't ask for it, but Apple ...


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After 4 years of abusing all manner of Apple selected SSD, I can conclusively say that the drives I have used are more reliable than HDD and have exhibited none of the potential drawbacks or cost associated with HDD failure modes in practice. For the first few computers I purchased, I did pay for AppleCare for several reasons. I had decent discounts on it ...


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If the home button is non-functional, and the device requires a working home button to even power up, then it seems you're in a chicken-egg situation. There is of course software that lets you remap some other button or UI action to correspond to the home button, but if you can't get the thing turned on you're out of that realm. I suppose you could open it ...


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Repair the home button seems the cheapest solution. With the digitizer working, OS working and you have accessibility enabled, you could use software to simulate a home button press. With root ssh access, you might have other avenues due to being jailbroken, but for most people, needing DFU and a broken home button is game over - get a new device time.


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In OSX you can also try many applications, one might give you the GPU or Motherboard temp instead of the CPU temp. OSX temperature apps: atMonitor or smcFanControl OSX might also take more resources than Windows. To minimize running apps, clear your startup items under Users in System Preferences, or check your Activity Monitor which shows your CPU% and ...


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A clean install of Mavericks might help or even better, update to Yosemite for more bug fixes.


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Sameee!!!! I went to the Apple Store and they said there is nothing wrong. They even told me to shake the in-store ones to prove to me, but they don't have the sound. Apparently, its part of the "moving mechanisms". Which is BS


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Replaced my screen with a aftermarket few years ago. Started losing touch around the edges and keyboard response slowed down. Progressively got worse.Installed new aftermarket screen of which have come down in price greatly. Seems like they somehow wear out as fixed the problem. Don't know if this can happen with factory screen but fixed my situation.


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I would connect that Mac to another running back and copy any files that are not backed up. Then I would then erase the hard drive/ partition and reinstall whatever operating system I wanted to run on it.


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Try these commands on a terminal window to unload and reload the driver: sudo kextunload -b com.apple.iokit.BroadcomBluetoothHostControllerUSBTransport sudo kextload -b com.apple.iokit.BroadcomBluetoothHostControllerUSBTransport


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I have used Goo Gone, orange liquid, to remove a sticker from the back of an iPad.


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The RAM speed won't be a problem, the system will detect the speed of the RAM and run it at the maximum compatible speed. Hard drives also won't be a problem. (you will want to do a "fresh" install of the operating system) As for the RAM voltage, I think that would be a problem. I'm not completely sure though. Whatever you do, make sure you run the Apple ...


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Here are some tips about the batteries that go inside Apple computers and devices. lithium cells will catch on fire and burn with such intensity that they can ignite almost anything that is combustible if you damage during the replacement. To save space, Apple engineers designed the case of your MacBook to protect the battery - once you open the case, the ...


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The jack is designed for both types of connection - thru a metal wire (analog mode) or via an optic fibre (optical mode) for better performance. Try by removing the current optical PLIST file that is used. Execute the following command in Terminal App: sudo rm -rfv ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.audio.Au­dioMIDISetup.plist Try unplugging and replugging ...


-1

I am having the same issue, and for now the only solution I found was to use a usb mouse. I think the problem began with 10.10.4, but I am not sure. It only happens to me with Chrome and Steam mostly.


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It's very common for one component it's connected electrically to another component to cause noise and other issues. Whether it's the most likely cause is debatable, but Apple's service centers have direct access to engineering and a huge wealth of repair data so they would be my first authority to go to determine what is likely and what is not. Without the ...



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