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Run software update from the apple icon. If there are any updates it will tell you but you should be good to go as the SATA interface is the same so the only firmware change needed is wear leveling and trim. You can check if that is enabled by clicking on About This Mac>system info> more details> then in the sidebar of system profiler click on the Sata ...


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I love listening to Security Now and you can go both ways on this. Swap on SSD: Yes, the HDD is slower, but one thing you have to remember is you are using a Mac, not Windows. Windows tries to move things out from ram into swap as quickly as it can, leading to the hard drive thrashing. However on a Mac, memory management is much better. Instead of ...


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You should go ahead and do what you first propose of the SSD in the optical and the HDD in the main. There are two things to consider with speed, data rate and latency. Data rate is how fast the data can transfer from point A to point B. Something to keep in mind though is HDD are not that fast and may not use the full 3 Gigabits it is given. A WD green ...


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There are two main options which I would go for: Put your library and contents on a network volume This is the option that I went for on my setup, mainly because I did not consider the second option at that point in time. This option works fine for me — even when the network drops (which is pretty rare): the data transfer pauses and continues when the ...


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Try to verify the HDD from disk utility and repair permission if this is doesn't work, try to format it using windows machine.


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To get the drive mounted at login, drag the mounted volume to the Login Items in System Preferences → Users & Groups for the user that you want the volume auto mounting. To set the permissions, Get Info (⌘I) on the drive and set the permissions in the Sharing & Permissions section.


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I am not sure what your problem is but this is as good time as any to republish this. Start up key combinations. It wont hurt trying them all.


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If only the arrow comes up when you hold down option it most likely means there's some kind of hardware issue. You may be able to repair it using the Disk Utility in Internet Recovery (Hold down ⌘ command+⌥ option/⌥ option+R while booting) , but I'd advise in to looking to getting this thing serviced or repaired. Sounds like you've got a bad HD. If all ...


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Here are your Options. We assume your Boot sector is somehow damaged. We further assume your hard drive is not damaged. Since you installed Mountain Lion you might be in luck. When you install Mountain Lion or Lion, the installer creates an invisible, bootable, 650MB partition—a portion of a drive the operating system treats as a separate volume—on your ...


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Two things you can try are key chain first aid and keychain reset, altough these in-house solutions hardly ever fixed anyhting for me. This is based on the fact that when some apps keep asking for passwords stored in the keychain, it's sometimes related to a corrupt keychain DB (Address Book's empty DB comes already corrupt on every new Mac - sarcasm).


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I recommend checking out a tool (there are many others) such as DaisyDisk which easily allows you to drill down and find space hogs. The trial version should do the job in a hurry.


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There are many things that 'other' could be. This Apple KB article details what 'other' space is: OS X: What is "other" space in About This Mac? …but basically, there's not only one thing that it could be, or one thing that everyone's suffered from. Your best bet is probably to run something like Daisy Disk or similar to find large files to delete. ...


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Where do you see that "other"? Free some space if you can and use DiskWave to check exactly where the files are.


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+1 for the flex cable, I have repaired quite a few MacBooks and the majority of the time when it will not recognize an internal hdd which is fully functioning, the cable is probably out.


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The only way to do this is to move your users home folder over to the firewire drive. see: http://chris.pirillo.com/how-to-move-the-home-folder-in-os-x-and-why/ Of course, this also means the firewire drive will now always have to remain connected, and you will lose some speed due to the fact you are interfacing with firewire and not sata.


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go to Finder > Preferences > General Then select Hard disks under "Show these items on the desktop:"


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I would run Verify Disk in the Disk First Aid tab in Disk Utility (Usually kept in Applications > Utilities). If there are any problems you will have to repair your disk which will require restarting while holding down the option key and booting from your recovery partition, or if you have an older computer, from the system install disk.


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Before trashing it try this: In disk utility Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed. ...


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Don't write any more data to that filesystem or drive. You might try if DiskWarrior can scavenge some of the HFS filesystem metadata, but a program like Data Rescue is your best bet for recovering all of the files that are still intact without needing any filesystem metadata.


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Since the table has most likely been written over, scanning for the files and backing them up that way is probably the only option. DataRescue is one of the more popular ones.


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That sound you hear is often referred to as "The Click of Death": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Click_of_death Head reader errors, motor errors, anything of this sort indicate physical failure, and possibly imminent device death. Get your data backed up off of that disk NOW. Afterwards, and only afterwards, check and see if it's still in warranty. :)


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Use DiskWarrior. It is exactly the purpose of the software to fix such errors. If DiskWarrior can't solve it. Use something like DataRescue to get the data, then reformat and reinstall.


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I've struggled for some days with the same problem but now it is solved. The problem was a faulty SATA cable. I've replaced it with a new one and now everything works as expected.


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Following the advice in this forum thread, I've deleted the files (after backing up to the computer): /User/Media/PhotoData/com.apple.photos.caches_metadata.plist /User/Media/PhotoData/Photos.sqlite /User/Media/PhotoData/PhotosAux.sqlite After opening the Photos app again, it rebuilds the Library: It's important to use the pattern IMG_0000.ext ...


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Winclone 4 does an excellent job of backing up and restoring BootCamp partitions. I have used it with Windows XP (unsupported) and 7. OSX 10.7+ $29.99 is the price and I think it is well worth it. http://twocanoes.com/winclone


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Some Macbook Pros don’t have full SATA III in the optical drive bay so I opted to put my samsung 840 pro into the main bay to take full advantage of the speed. On your mac, open up “system information” (applications/utilities/system information). Find "SATA/SATA Express” in the side bar. Click on the SATA Connection and see under “negotiated Link Speed” for ...


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I personally wouldn't clone it and put it back that way. Feel free to try, but I'd never recommend it. Why, you ask? You will always have more useless waste on your disk compared to a fresh install and placing the items back you really need. You have partitioned it and it might cause trouble You're using an SSD, seeing you've bought a larger size SSD, I ...


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It's worth noting that BitLocker can be run without needing a USB key. More information can be found here, scroll down to "Use BitLocker on a Drive Without TPM."



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