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If you are comfortable using Terminal.app, I recommend multiple partitions. Moving Home These questions explain how to move a user account to a separate partition: Is there a safe way to move the /Users folder to a separate volume/drive? How to make the Users Directory a different partition in Snow Leopard? Considerations, Benefits, and Choices ...


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I do not see any advantages to your proposal. On OS X if your Users partition failed to mount then the operating system would create a new home folder for any user who logged in on the boot partition. There may be an advantage to create an application swap partition if any of your apps allow the configuration.


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In response to your first and easy question, yes, your HDD is dying and needs to be replaced ASAP. Now is a good opportunity to change it to an SSD. Here is a good video on YouTube that shows you how. I am not sure why you would use dd to fix bad blocks/sectors when DiskUtility has a more robust solution. Boot into recovery mode by holding Command-R (or ...


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Disk Utility will not fix every conceivable disk corruption issue. For that you need third-party apps. I use Diskwarrior and have also had success with Drive Genius. However there is one way to do this without buying a disk repair utility. Back up your hard drive, partition/reformat it, reinstall the OS and restore your backup. Yeah it's more complicated ...


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It seems that after a little more research, I was able to recover my issue with a more aggressive fsck_hfs -drfs /dev/disk0s2 call.


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The "read only" status has to do with the UUID of the files on the drive no longer matching what is coming from your Mac. So, basically, you have to "orphan" those files. Here is a good writeup on how to do it, but note that this is an UNOFFICIAL method and not sanctioned by Apple. How to Enable NTFS Write Support in Mac OS X


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If you have two Machintosh HDs together, choose the second (indented) one. You may need to unlock it via the context menu. Then tell Disk Utility to create an image of the volume directly. In Disk Utility with the Macintosh HD volume selected, use New disk image on the toolbar or select New > Disk Image from "Macintosh HD" from the File menu. Bear in mind ...


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The solution that works on both OS 10.11 El Capitan and on OS 10.10 Yosemite is: Open up Disk Utility Select the actual drive, which is the lower part that will most likely be greyed out: Then go to Erase Select MAC OS EXTENDED (Journaled, Encrypted) It's important to select Encrypted Then enter a password and wait.(It will run without a problem ) Then you ...


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When updating to Yosemite you will want to make sure that you are at least running 10.6.8. Running the early versions of 10.6 when updating to Yosemite, will cause errors. You will also want to make sure that the TRIM has been disabled. Please take a look at this OWC Blog post for instructions: ...


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I upgraded several Macbooks with Samsung SSDs. But they were EVO 840. Here is what I noted for myself: SDD had to be plugged instead of the original HDD. Plugging in instead of DVD gives issues. The connector is very hard to plug and unplug to Samsung SSDs. It is much easier with Apple HDD. So you have to press firm to plug in the SSD. To unplug, gently ...


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You should install the latest driver on your Win 7, then the connection should be ok.


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Try downloading the driver directly from the Seagate site before plugging it back into your windows computer.


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Looks like a disk problem, dying. In the Recovery Partition (start while holding CMD+R), start DiskUtility do Repair Disk. Even when the issue is gone after that, prepare to have the disk replaced.


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In OS X you can use Disk Utility to resize partitions live, however before starting you should make an external backup. As the bootable partition is the 2nd on the disk, you aren't able to move that partition up to the top. You can however use the Restore tab in Disk Utility or a program such as Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper to copy the contents of the ...


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You may be [not] seeing the other partitions on the drive, Recovery & EFI, which will be contributing to that 'extra' space. Try enabling the debug menu in Disk Utility, then enabling all partition view… Quit Disk Utility Open the Terminal utility Run the following Command: defaults write com.apple.DiskUtility DUDebugMenuEnabled 1 Relaunch Disk ...


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CousinCocaine was correct about putting the Dropbox app on the drive itself. That prohibits the drive from being ejected without closing Dropbox, except for force ejecting, which I don't plan on doing, and just yanking the cord out, which I hope I don't do (I think that the app might close as a result of the latter). The easiest way to relocate the app is ...


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On my MacBooks over Wifi, the HDD attached to the Airport does not mount in the same way as directly connected or even NAS drives. Rather than the drive, I get the Airport Extreme in the 'Shared' section of Finder. Selecting the Airport Extreme shows the drive as a folder, and opening that folder effectively 'mounts' it. Even then, the drive does not show as ...


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Here's the only thing that worked for me, w/ 3 Seagate & 1toshiba w/ Paragon NTFS dominant over all till 10.10.3, - no access at all. Uninstall Incl** all plist files, you may need to look past your user folder library. Shutdown and disconnect pwr / & HDD's for 5 min. Boot /install a fresh full working copy of Paragon, restart / attatch HDD's / they ...


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Sorry to hear of your situation. The first megabyte will have included the drive's partition and critical structural information. If you can, dd all the remaining content to another drive as a back-up of sorts. Then I suspect your best choice is a professional repair service or a tool like DiskWarrior: DiskWarrior Everything just disappeared after ...


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I have found that when Disk Utility can't repair a disk then it is time for DiskWarrior or another third-party disk repair utility. They can often fix what Disk Utility can not. However that the issue went away, seemingly by magic, makes Froggard's guess probable. I would, however, keep an eye on the disk with disk utility. Use the verify function from ...


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I use to have multiple dropbox instances running at once. I think you can put db app on the drive and use the same trick I did. HOME=/Volumes/Whereever/you/wanna/go; /Volumes/Whereever/Dropbox.app/Contents/MacOS/Dropbox & One thing. With this method you change your default $HOME into your new path. So Dropbox will create a folder called Dropbox in ...


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du You can use the commandline to help you out with this. I prefer a one-liner such as this one: sudo du -h /Users 2>/dev/null | grep '^\s*[0-9]\+G' This might be intimidating in the beginning, but it is fairly simple. You can find an explanation on what each part does here: explainshell.com. But in short, it uses a user with admin rights to check the ...


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I use Grand Perspective for checking what is hogging disk space. Its a good visual tool - try it out - http://grandperspectiv.sourceforge.net/


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The Storage tab of About This Mac is based on Spotlight, so try reindexing the HD: HT201716 - Spotlight: How to re-index folders or volumes


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I highly recommend using: http://daisydiskapp.com .. Once downloaded and installed they have a "Test Drive" option you click that lets you use it for free. Please note that to see all files on your HD that all users own, you will want to use the "Scan as Administrator" option, which will prompt you to enter your password. There is also: Disk Inventory ...


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Yosemite converts your drive to Core Storage, which makes most Windows utilities that used to be able to read Mac drives, unable to do so. I'd suggest making an image of the drive. I'm not terribly familiar with Windows disk imaging software, but it looks like DAEMON Tools will get the job done. There's a "Lite" version that claims to be able to do it.


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ran into the same problem and found this article that fixes it a little easier Just run diskutil coreStorage list, find the logical volume uuid, and then run diskutil coreStorage revert (that uuid) in your case diskutil coreStorage revert 2F7B1893-07E8-4194-840B-F2552042E055 http://awesometoast.com/yosemite-core-storage-and-partition-woes/


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In your case probably a upgrade to SATA 3 SSD (internal) would do the most. AFIK your model supports it, and you will get up to 6 Gb/s R/W speeds and combined with RAM upgrade would get you what you want. Adding a external drive to expand the storage if needed, the one would use the Thunderbolt SSD. Find out if your Model supports the SATA 3 SSD before ...


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Thanks to @tubedogg for linking me to this post and giving me the tips. To fix the issue I had to run the commands diskutil cs revert <disk id> and diskutil cs resizeStack (Not sure if that worked since I think it game me an error). I had to reboot for the effects to change and I partitioned my drive in recovery mode (think you can do it within OS X ...


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Ok, figured it out. I was running a simple rsync command: rsync -av /Users/kenneth /foo where /foo is the former location of an external drive. Instead of directing rsync to the current location, I was creating a new location and writing to it, simply duplicating files on my boot drive. Lesson: read your command twice and double-check before running it.


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You need to buy a new drive onto which you will copy your data from the borked drive. Preferably, this new drive will be a brand other than Seagate, which has the worst failure records in the industry. Once you have safely copied your data to the new drive, you can then begin to worry about how to deal with the Seagate drive.


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You can try following these steps: run the following command in Terminal: diskutil list Find your disk label in the "NAME" column, and note the identifier all the way on the right (something like "disk#s#") Now run this command: diskutil unmount MISC Next run: sudo mkdir /Volumes/MISC && sudo mount -w -t exfat /dev/disk#s# /Volumes/MISC replacing ...


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You will not be able to split your drive into more than two partitions and still be able to boot Windows. There is a hard limit on the number of partitions on the boot drive for Windows (may be for Mac and Linux too, not sure). You can certainly dual boot Mac and Windows (or Mac/Linux) but not all three on one drive. If you follow the instructions in ...


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Sadly for you, lots goes on in storage. Apple has several caching and thinning features that will proactively reclaim space when you run low. Unfortunately, you'll likely need to maintain more like 15 GB of free space if you wish to surf on the wave Apple has set for you. To solve this, you'll need to be specific about how you are measuring free space and ...


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Disk Utility repair functions are (from what I have heard) just a front end to FSCK, so that will likely give you the same results. You could try another disk repair utility (diskWarrior, techtool, etc...), or if you have a recent backup I would be tempted to wipe the drive and start over. If you have another Mac you could put that Mac into target disk ...


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The drive will be bound by the speed of the technology in your computer. 1.5Gbps is fast enough for the cheapest SSDs money can buy, but anything better than that is going to saturate the bandwidth. You'll definitely see a performance improvement over an HDD, even with this limitation, but don't go buying a high-performance SSD.


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I recommend that you get a third drive (2-4 times the size of your non-Time Machine volumes). Your current Time Machine configuration doesn't really allow you to keep a snapshot of the backup dated 2015.06.11 (~900 GB) because none of your drives have enough free space to store it. After installing a 3rd external drive (with at least 2TB, the more, the ...


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From the Tom's Hardware Forum: By default, the OSX disk utility creates a new partition as GUID. Windows can't read it. You need to create the partition type as MBR, which Windows can read. Then format as exFAT and both machines will read it.


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Some advice. I always back up my photos separately from Time Machine. You can save your images in a separate folder on the Time Machine drive and Time Machine will not overwrite them (used to do this with Apertures backup vault). Also, depending on the space on your Time Machine drive, you could use time machine to backup your external Photos drive as as ...


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Try using one of the various temperature utilities to get the temperature of the hard drive. Perhaps the CD-ROM drive space isn't ventilated very well, and your hard drives have put out more heat than the original CD-ROM drive.


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Every iMac from the mid-2007 release onwards can run Yosemite, and the last model that couldn't could also only address 3GB of RAM. So it's almost certain that your iMac will be able to run Yosemite.


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I think no, as reported here in this guide for replacing the SSD only the SSD or Fusion Drive version has the M.2 slot: Use this guide to replace the SSD stick in an SSD only, or Fusion Drive model of the Mac Mini Late 2014. By the way you can easily figure out this opening the enclosure on the bottom following the guide linked before.


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You have to format the SSD without using it as your primary disk. If you're able to run Mac with the old disk, connect the SSD via external enclosure and format it (or make a clone of the running HDD). After this swap the disks, boot form installer and install OS on SSD.


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My OS is 10.10.3, and I have both external Time Machine volume, and a secondary external volume. I also use multiple Spaces with Mission Control, and I sometimes have Finder windows on different Spaces that refer to locations upon my secondary external volume. When ejecting a volume, I noticed sometimes that the file system will treat the volume as "being ...


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Rather than a SATA cable, you could use a 2.5" SATA / USB case or enclosure if you are planing on using a MBP for recovery. Unless you'd like to replace the internal HDD with the damaged one and move the data to another destination. As @bmike suggested, inspect the HDD and do not connect if it is wet.


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That's a good plan. You can inspect the drive and see if it got wet, allow surface wetness to fry thoroughly before attempting to power it up. As long as it spins, you'll likely be successful in recovery and might not even need something like Data Rescue to perform an undelete or partial recovery if the catalog is damaged.


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You want to run diskutil coreStorage unlockVolume <UUID>, where the UUID is the Disk Identifier associated with your encrypted disk, /dev/disk3. You can get the identifier by running diskutil list in the terminal and looking for the output related to /dev/disk3. The identifier is a long string that would look something like this ...


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I've done some more research and found out that at least JDiskReport has this functionality.


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There is no software utility to check if a cable is defective. your symptoms are odd and could point to an issue with NVRAM that booting into the boot selector allows you to force EFI to pick a boot device manually. I would zap the PRAM (boot holding COMMAND, OPTION, P, R) and let it bong three times. Failing that try resetting the SMC (power off the Mac, ...


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As a followup, I updated my 2011 MacBook Pro (not my Mac Pro) using an aftermarket SSD in December of 2014. Drive Selection Balancing budget vs performance vs reputation, I chose a Crucial M500 480GB — not a known high-performer, but with a decent reputation for reliability. I’m not sure the power loss protection capacitors are needed in a laptop, but I ...



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