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This is the result of excess force squeezing the wrist pad against the internal components. In your other question asking about heat stress is a no go. Aluminum doesn't weaken or deform that way in temperature ranges where plastic won't melt and batteries don't catch fire. The bulge in the other question is really compression bending the case inward and ...


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I doubt that the Mac would get so hot internally that the metal would warp before the Mac shut itself down. There are thermal sensors throughout the unit designed to keep it from thermal overload. Did this actually happen to you? How is it warped?


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I had a similar question about how to identify files and programs connected to kernal_task using the following terminal command: kextstat -l -k | awk '{n = sprintf("%d", $4); print n, $6}' | sort -n This will display various kexts and the memory associated with them. For example, 6184960 com.apple.driver.AirPort.Brcm4360 is a big hog for me, but I can't ...


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It might be your GPU. Try going to System Preferences->Energy Saver and changing the "Graphics" setting. If it was on "Better battery life" then set it to "Higher performance", and vice-versa if it already was on "Higher performance".


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Lithium batteries do not like complete discharge, so do it at 10% or higher. You can leave them as long you wish in the charger, it will stop charging when full. The battery charger it self has no limit on life time, yet again, it has to work harder if completely drained battery is to be charged. If for some reason you have to leave the batteries on the ...


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The recommended storage temperature for most batteries is 15°C (59°F); the extreme allowable temperature is –40°C to 50°C (–40°C to 122°F) for most chemistries. While lead acid must always be kept at full-charge during storage, nickel- and lithium-based chemistries should be stored at around a 40 percent state-of-charge (SoC). This minimizes age-related ...


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Neither the RAM, Processor, or SSD can be upgraded. I recommend 16 GiB RAM, everything else you can decide on. There have been quite a number of posts asking about upgrades, so I'll point you to one I answered earlier today, more specific questions feel free to ask. I use my '11 15" MacBook Pro for development, systems administration, and other ...


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Practically all third party batteries for mac are s**t, go to Apple and buy an apple battery. Expensive but worth the money. I am speaking from a hard way of learning... LS


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I use the 13 inch MBP for development. It is essential that you buy an external monitor. I recommend the LG Ultrawide. Also get a decent keyboard; chicklet keyboards are known to cause tendonitis. Lastly, don't over-spend. Lots of people buy elaborate gear and then never really use it.


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It would be perfect for development! I'm a Software Engineer and I'm currently developing using a MBP 13'' mid 2010, 2.66 GHz, 8 GB RAM, NVIDIA GeForce 320M 256 MB. Everything mentioned above work fine and smooth. I've also tried a MBP 13'' and 15'' mid 2014 and they are very fast compared to mine model. Are Atom.io and Android Studio working without ...


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Well, that is the proximity sensor which should detect when you hold the phone to your ear and turn off the touch screen, etc. On my iPhone 5 it is only active when I make a phone call or use a App that uses it (e.g. SmartSleep). It is also visible to the eye when you are in a dark room. These (rather old) articles (1, 2) has more info and states that this ...


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That's not possible. Also, modifying a USB cable (as suggested in another answer) is a) probably not a good idea and b) probably won't even work (see this question & answer). Energy-wise, you are most likely better of by just using wifi for tethering.


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Not possible, you would have to physically alter the USB cord and remove the pins related to power and leave the data ones intact.


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As a general rule given the low cost of having Apple replace the battery I would normally recommend this, it's then a official product with warranty. However as you've already got the part and opened the phone this is too late.. It looks like the cover you are trying to remove is the one over the battery connector, this is what prevents your battery from ...


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Apple Pay works with NFC "Near Field Communication" band at 13.56 Mhz (but in low energy) means it has to be very close to the source to work). You iPhone gets a interference signal (not intended) from Samsung and it thinks it is near a payment machine and it activates. Since it is a interference, there is no software that can fix that, it is a hardware ...


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If you can't boot to a grey screen after resetting the SMC and then connecting a working charger for 15 minutes, you have a hardware issue. The steps a hardware technician would perform are as follows: Disconnect everything you can from the Mac Try a power on when connected to power. (Observing whether the charge LED goes green or orange is an important ...


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the current os does not seem to show this data or at least not as described above. This is an excellent app which tracks battery health for both the laptop and iPhone. Free - http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutbattery/


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Unfortunately you've tried everything... If there is enough power left to boot you could go to the Apple Menu > About this Mac > System Report > Power > AC Charger Information and have a look if it recognises the charger, and check the battery health. If this isn't an option because the battery is flat, or health is good and the charger isn't recognised. ...


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Your battery life is based on cycles, not so much what you use them for. Your battery has no idea if you are streaming music from your favorite service or your are crunching numbers to calculate pi to the nth digit or just surfing Stackexchange. The more draw you put on it, the more it is going to discharge requiring you to plug it back in to recharge it. ...


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It looks like it was caused by the SMC com.apple.driver.AppleSMCLMU dependency: com.apple.iokit.IOGraphicsFamily dependency: com.apple.driver.AppleSMC and the "No batteries Available" would lead me to believe it is the system (SMC) plist file. Look up your Model ID in the About this Mac. (this is mine) Now find the plist for your Model ID in the ...


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That's an option to enable : Settings > General > Usage > Battery Percentage



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