If I go to the Apple ID support site and try to change my security questions, or password, it tells me that it is sending email to the registered email address. This is a working address that gets dozens of messages every day. But nothing from Apple comes through. Yes, I've checked spam.
That is, I log into appleid.apple.com with my Apple ID and password, and click on 'change security questions or password'.
The support link lands me at support for hardware, so that's no help.
Is there anywhere else to turn?